beautiful monsters

Volcanic wanderings

Groooooaaan…

I spent all yesterday in bed with stomach cramps and nausea. Not sure if it was a very extreme reaction to the cheesy pizza we shared in Ohakune, or if I got some kind of bug. Curled up in bed in my polypropylene and polar-fleece with the electric blanket and heater going, and still I shivered. Feeling much better today, but not 100% and have decided not to venture off to class – I’m going to get kicked out of the class at this rate. But it’s cold and wet and I’m not well...

Aside from being sick, I feel more ready to face the new year now. Feel like I’ve had a proper holiday, thanks to Dave, who had access to a car for the weekend and suggested a tramp. He’ll probably never ask again now that he knows how slowly I walk... And I tried, unsuccessfully, to arrange accommodation before the tramp. The lodge told me that late check-in would be fine, they’d leave a key on the board for us, but when we finally arrived at 2am (I had the second shift driving and was relying heavily on cans of V) there was no sign of the key. Dave slept in the car, Alex and I pitched the tent in the dark. I think I got to sleep for about an hour.

On Sunday we set off early in the morning. The first part of the tramp followed the Tongaririo Crossing, and involved scrambling over a succession of lava flows from Ngauruhoe, and then a steep climb up the rock-face. I had to offload some of my weight onto Dave – hey, the tent was heavy, and the lack of sleep definitely didn’t help. It was a gorgeous day, and we had spectacular views of the craters, and over towards Ruapehu to the south, the Kaimanawa range to the east.

After lunch by the Emerald Lakes (apparently the deep turquoise colour is caused by sulphur and other minerals – stunning against the red scoria slopes, but I’m glad we didn’t drink the water) we headed east, following more lava formations. I found the decent down a steep slope of loose, sharp rocks rather nerve racking.

It was a long day of walking, and the landscape was incredibly dry and barren. No streams, no water at all once we left behind the sulphuric crater lakes. Only a few scraggly plants, those that had managed to survive eruptions, ice and harsh winds, and find a home clinging amongst the loose gravel. We got coated with dust, I think even the inside of my mouth and throat was dusty. And I was exhausted – probably the walk was a little over-ambitious for me, and I plodded along at an agonising pace for the last couple of hours.

When we finally reached the Waihohonu hut there were already heaps of people there and a night in a crowded hut didn’t really appeal. We headed down to the stream, where there were campsites among the beech trees. My tent was only really designed for one or two people, but we managed to fit three, and the sand made a soft mattress. We had stir fried veggies and noodles, then Swedish Pepparkakor and hot chocolate.

The next day we followed the stream west, then crossed the saddle between Ngauruhoe and Ruapehu. It rained all day, persistent icy rain. Alex and I were gasping as we stripped off in order to change into polypro’s, fleeces, and wooly hats. My jacket wasn’t waterproofing properly, and I was soaked. We only stopped for a few minutes at lunchtime, in the relative shelter of a river bed. We passed by the tama lakes, in their deep explosion craters, but didn’t go down to investigate – we were too cold, and too tired. Apart from Dave, who didn’t seem tired at all and bounded ahead of us.

The last couple of hundred metres of the track took us between the buildings of the Skotel, which was slightly surreal. Then Dave went in search of soy hot chocolates, while Alex and I huddled on the veranda of the Whakapapa information centre, keeping an eye out for our ride.

I had to stand in the shower for about ten minutes before I started to feel warm again.

Photos will follow, once the weather improves and I make it into town...

Posted by Fionnaigh at January 21, 2004 09:09 AM